77 Worth St
New York, NY 10013
b/t Broadway & Church St TriBeCa, Civic Center
January 28, 2016
Green Tomato / juniper
Finally made the pilgrimage to Atera. The setting of the restaurant is an intimate lounge with an open kitchen. It is ritzy but not too stiff.
Our welcome dish was nothing short of promising. This chill green tomato soup was a little sweet and a lot sour. It wowed me with its seeming simplicity but prominent taste.
Herbs and flowers / shrimp
An au-courant starter. The presentation was immaculate. The shrimp sunflower sauce introduced a sharp tang as a bed for everything.
Baerii Caviar / pistachio, beer
This plate was out of bounds. The ice cream maintained the most natural pistachio flavor, and the benign bitterness coming from the beer cream was unexpectedly neutral. A complete bite was lastly fulfilled by a dynamic savory swerve of the caviar.
Waffle / Cheddar, burgundy truffle
This cracker sammies was tidy, and snapping apart neatly for biting. The combination of cheese and truffle easily made the tastebud pop.
Melon / Mustard
The sliced mint within a cube of cantaloupe was so refreshed and newly thrilling. This bite was almost served as a palate cleaner.
Golden whitefish roe / venison, potato
Let me be blunt: this is the most beautiful potato chips I have ever eaten. The semitransparent light yellow color was evenly distributed, and the shape of each was intactly round. The flavor of the whitefish roe and venison dip can either be smart (for its gaminess) or misguided (for the slightly over full body).
Crab / tomato, rose hip
The dungeness crab meat was noticeably sweet. The utilize of frozen cream and tomato here maximized the umaminess of the seafood.
Razor clam / beet , horseradish
One of the weaker plate. The dirt flavor of the beet was overpowering, and tainted the oceanic flavor of the razor clam.
Oyster / broccoli , celery
The sea oyster was seared and seasoned to perfection. A whisper of salty sweetness immediately hit my brain after the first bite. It was made even more delectable by the faint hint of tarragon yogurt sauce.
Scallop / bitter greens, miso
Butter and seafood, I kid you not. The scallop was moist and flavorsome. The melted brown butter with miso added a sour, warm and fermented dimension to the scallop. I also love the use of spoon in this dish.
Whole wheat batard / Sourdough croissant
I was so uplifting when the bread course cut in in the middle of this meal. There were two kinds of bread – batard and croissant. The batard was super yeasty. And the croissant, was so attempting because of the use of sourdough. One acidic bite and I was hooked.
There were also two kinds of butter, a caramelized one and a yogurt one. I much prefered the caramelized butter, which held a long-lasting bold taste. Several months have passed, I still found these bread mind boggling good.
Chef Ronny Emborg
Countertop dinner means that I got to watch the chef do the art and chemistry.
Turbot / Shallot
We then made some fish and egg actions. The following two courses were spanish turbot with mushroom bourguignon sauce, and cauliflower with white truffle, egg yolk, and whey puree. Both were executed meticulously. The flavor profile was just less forward-thinking compared with the upcoming remarkable foie gras dish.
Foie gras / black currant, apple, peanut
This was the course that knocked out every factor of it. The foie gras and peanut butter were mega rich, while the black currant and apple found its way to cut through the greasiness to a precise extent.
Lamb en croute / huckleberry, burnt onion
The last course was lamb saddle with crust. The outstanding part is the use of black garlic in this dish, which brought up an unique syrupy and vinegary taste. It was also another good echo back to the dark fruit huckleberry.
Milk / grape, pine
Licorice / blueberry
Dessert is the part I felt weak on Atera’s menu. All of them embodied a strong nordic style. The marshmallow covered with chocolate was a bit of single note sweet.
Because the friend who I went with knows someone who works there, we got a rare chance to visit Atera’s green garden two floors down. It was impressive to see those alive herbs compacted orderly under the ground.
Food at Atera was exquisitely refined. The service was uniformly attentive throughout the meal. This is for sure a competition-level meal. Before we took off they gave us a small menu of that night and recipe as a gift.