800 W Randolph St
Chicago, IL 60607
b/t Green St & Halsted St West Loop, Near West Side
December 27, 2017
Omelette with roasted peppers, espellette & fresh chèvre
Au Cheval is a place with a lot of hype, and turns out it does hold a ton of substance.
We waited for about an hour for a Sunday brunch. The menu is small, so once sit the order was right away – omelette, eggs & foie gras, and burger seemed like the way to do it. The meal was gluttony.
Foie gras, scrambled eggs & toast
Both egg dishes were hefty, salt-bombed and ethereal. The initial experience of the omelette’s silky texture was almost an epiphany. It was so similar to a really good French omelette with an extra Chicago mentality, meaning that it was heavier on every flavour dimension.
The scrambled eggs have been wantonly garnished with chunky foie gras. This is an egg dish that defy logic and sense (too heavy of a combination) with its brainless deliciousness. The portion was much more generous than imagined, given the humble price at $19. This is unthinkable in New York. This dish alone would be the reason to go back to Au Cheval.
Single cheeseburger + bacon
With a tart bite of pickle, it was one of the most appealing burgers I had ever come across. The added signature bacon held a gentle char and complex notes of smoke. The meat contained preternatural juiciness. But the same issue here, the use of salt was far from shy. This whole thing tended to be too salty after few bites and made it hard to finish.
It would be a miss to not mention 4 Charles Prime Rib, which is a new opening in NYC this year from the same hospitality group Hogsalt.
Obviously, at 4 Charles the focus is prime rib, but for a real splurge – order a burger for the appetizer, suggested by our waiter. The burger had the same run-down-your-sleeve juiciness. The double thin patties echoed the joy of a double quarter pounder. The overall flavor was aligned with the one at Au Cheval.
4 Charles cut, double cut, bone-in beauty with natural beef jus & horseradish cream
The prime rib is a rare finding which we liked but is not from an old-school steakhouse like Wolfgang or Keens. The meat itself was apparent high quality and cooked to a perfect rawness. This massive cut has made us dumbed with happiness. Excess, after all, is the point of a steakhouse.