Contra

Contra
138 Orchard St
New York, NY 10002
b/t Rivington St & Delancey St in Lower East Side

June 24, 2017

Second Review 2017,06

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Potato chips. smoked roe emulsion

时隔两年,又有机会回去重新试试contra。

开胃小食是对我口味的。外薄脆内细密,口感跌宕有趣,而且一般餐厅的烤薯片普遍太咸,这个就刚刚好。

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Bread

伴随套餐的涨价($74),面包现在不需要单点了。我坐下后第一件事就是和服务员确认面包的芳魂是否尚在,然后呼碌呼碌吃掉两个。。啊,被温柔发酵过的酸面包配上美国一等(法国二等)的黄油,是小型天堂。

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Green blueberry, radish, fennel

清亮的一款时令色拉,没什么印象。

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Squid, rhubarb, lardo

另一道前菜是被切成面条状的鱿鱼(在这两片lardo下),鱿鱼滑滑黏黏的有些糊嘴,虽然大根帮助添加了一些结构,但是口感上再多一点对比会好。

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Halibut, green peppercorn, spring onion

当晚最出彩的就是这道比目鱼了。鱼肉一拨便是成型的一片,入口微弹又松化无渣。绿胡椒辛却不辣,使得整个简单调味的载体都活泼了起来。吃了心里美妙。

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Beef, asparagus, walnut

看见牛肉,踏实多了。本来以为由于部位是腹肉所以口感偏韧,结果换了几种切向吃起来都还是不断筋,只能归纳为烹饪得不断筋。。

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Passionfruit, spruce

一直认为百香果的甜品虽然味馥气馨,但是很容易过甜,这款也不例外。

IMG_6946 Hazelnut, blackberry

第二款榛子与莓的搭配很怡人,一勺下去层次分明。最后半杯酒边食边饮,时感脾爽神清~

总而言之,和上一次一样的结论。contra是一家功夫到位的餐厅,会做鱼,最喜欢的还是面包黄油,体现出一份看繁华落尽的从容。

First Review : 2015, 03

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Bread

For some of you really out there, contra’s five-course prix fixe menu starts with a modest sum of $55… And hopefully no one would care to spend extra $3 for the bread supplement. It was this amazing warm wodge with a swath of nori butter. I can guarantee it was one of the best I get among restaurants..

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Persimmon, squash, ham

This was a pretty deconstructed salad. Since menu here is ever-changing, I assume these were all of-the-moment ingredients.

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Pollock, brussels sprouts, seaweed

The fish unfailingly retained a slippery texture. The overall taste was quite mild.

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Veal breast, beet, treviso

Very expressive plating here.

Notice! There was no starch involved in this whole meal, which again made the bread almighty necessary. Like I said before: You want the bread.

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Coffee, meyer lemon

For coffee geeks, it doesn’t get any more real than this. It reminded me of italian espresso with a slice of lemon. The lemon flavor dulled the bitterness of the espresso, while adding some refreshing acidity.

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Popcorn, mandarin

The mandarin granita delivered a spring-evoking allure, and the savory corn mousse in the bottom brought all elements together from texture to taste. This was a new hope for popcorn as a dessert.