Cosme

Cosme
35 E 21st St
New York, NY 10010
b/t Broadway & 5th Ave in Flatiron

October 14, 2017

Second Review 2017,10

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Pan dulce selection

Went back to the slick Cosme for brunch this time.

We started with the above wake-up-my-palate nourishments with cups of pick-me-up cold brew Café de Olla. How lucky were we?

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Nopal cactus salad, market greens, ayocote puree

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Uni tostada, avocado, bone marrow salsa, cucumber

The following small plates were interesting vibrant foodstuffs. Both were made from high-quality ingredients. The swirl of flavors reflected the chef’s expansive definition of Mexican food. However the overall was not as compelling for one reason or another.

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Lamb barbacoa, shishito peppers, quelites, avocado, salsas (to share)

Moving on to the shock-and-awe lamb barbacoa. The presentation was stunning. The lamb and everything inside was carefully cooked. I really liked its restrained seasoning. Similar to the duck served during dinner, this

Similar to the duck served during dinner, this build your own taco course made every bite an adventure as you can keep layering and changing the components. The habanero pepper on the side was guaranteed to leave your lips plumped and tingling. The effect was addictive.

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Mango Mezcal bite with Chile Guajillo 

Ordered the husk meringue again, compulsively. I took a bite. And then another. Yes, it was still a great one.

Later, a weightless mango mezcal bite arrived with the check, fitted the mood and the appetite of everyone.

First Review : 2015, 04

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Burrata, salsa verde, weeds

Under the big name of chef Enrique Olvera, along with a boom in serious Mexican cuisine in the city, Cosme is certainly enjoying its days. We visited on an early Sunday evening and still ended up sitting in the only two seats left at the bar.

With an understanding that the duck we definitely want is going to be humongous, we started with a single appetizer. As a $24 plate, the burrata did ooze… Paired with salsa verde, the flavor was pungent without being too assertive. But given the portion and ingredient, I doubted that price tag.

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Duck carnitas, onions, radishes, salsa verde (to share)

The entire duck was marinated in orange and Mexican Coca-Cola and slowly cooked for hours. The taste was similar to Chinese style red braised dishes. The meat was so soft that I didn’t even use my knife. Even better, every bite was mellowed out with a smear of fatness from the skin… To finish the whole was a colossal feast.

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Husk Meringue with Corn Mousse

The much-hyped husk meringue came to the table in a lava-spilling-out-from-cracked-dome form. The corn mousse possessed of a rich mascarpone taste. Its surprising savory flavor balanced out the one-note sweetness of the meringue. Besides the well-composed taste, the mousse & meringue marriage also created a perfect contrast in texture. I would just be blunt and say, no order at Cosme is complete without ordering this dessert.