29 rue Surcouf
Paris, France 75007
Tour Eiffel/Champ de Mars, 7ème
December 27, 2016
Parsnip puree with white chocolate mousse
David Toutain is my choice of the closeout post of 2016. It was a serious recommendation from a senior friend – “David Toutain rivals some most famous Michelin restaurants in town.” And the amuse bouche already revealed that the cooking had a finesse at this place.
Almond brioche, salted butter from Normandy
The butter was highly spreadable, tasting earthy, pure and briny all at once. The brioche delivered an ideal flake-to-butter ratio.
Sweet potato gnocchi, coffee, hazelnut, onion
The first course was very composed in flavor. Sweet potato and hazelnut was a perfect marriage. The sauce was deepened and darkened by coffee and given a blazing characteristic by onion.
Celery root taglierini with raw and cooked topinambur, chestnut, and crispy rice
The chef was able to whip up gimmicks to woo the eaters. Here ribbons of celery root were garlanded by tiny bits of green and crispy rice. The essence of this dish lied in its impeccably tuned ranges of textures.
Smoked eel, black sesame, ink, apple
Then there was these transformative bites of eel. The eel itself was perfectly cooked. Bracing some inked sesame sauce has given each mouthful a pop of flavor. This was probably one of the most beautiful dishes which have ever touched my lips in 2016.
Beef, carrot crispy quinoa
Given all the previous plates, I would not expect this bulk-up portion of main course. The beef fell flat compared with other explosive morsels, but this trait more well-produced than off-putting.
Cauliflower cream ,vanilla and coconut purée, white chocolate
Figs, crispy gingerbread
Churros artichoke, chocolate with smoked salt
Cauliflower cream sounded genius and did hit the mark. Fig and gingerbread held an exquisite sour-to-sweet balance. The chef was monkeying around with branches presentation for the after dessert part again. I salute the chef’s mind. At David Toutain the food was gutsier, not so cheffy. Perfection is near.