41 W 42nd St
New York, NY 10036
b/t Avenue Of The Americas & 5th Ave Midtown West
May 24, 2016
Kugelhoph bread, chive fromage blanc
I treated myself to GK as a birthday gift. Hope was certainly high.
Our four-course prix fixe dinner started with a moist and savory bread. It was very ambrosial. The white soft cheese spread was also a good bet. The use of chive led to an enhanced fragrance.
Chilled Provence White Asparagus Soup* candied pumpkin seeds • white corn tuile • comté custard
The cocktail bites all held a sweet and acid-sharp tone. It was almost like a pre-dessert, which was a bit unusual in the annals of amuse bouche. The presentation was starkly playful. Forms and shapes were designed with a thinking to the space, as well as a consideration to the use of utensil.
My first appetizer was a gorgeous white soup. The texture was milk, accompanying with the right amount of crunchiness from the corn tuile. Its taste was pure and delicate. This chilled soup captivated me as I emptied the bowl.
Langoustine Tartare * flying fish roe • cauliflower-macadamia purée
The langoustine tartare was an ethereal looking dish. It maintained a clean and direct oceanic flavor, and was so texturally-nuanced when merrily jostling with the flying fish roe. Even though for me the use of the flower in most dishes today are still more ornamental than functional, here I will take it for granted.
Have to mention that the collection of tableware at GK is truly things of beauty. There are even separate utensils for the right-handed and the left-handed. Every single piece seems lovingly picked out.
Crispy Sweetbreads Roasted in Duck Fat * honshimeji • pancetta • pasilla
Sweetbreads was fried to deeply satisfying. The brown jus was rich but unfussy. Since the portion was generous, it could be a bit too heavy-handed when reaching the last few bites, but it was a rather small complaint. I was enriched for sure.
Sturgeon & Sauerkraut Tart * american caviar mousseline • applewood smoke
Another luxury dish. The use of sauerkraut was a surprising welcome addition to the flavoring scheme.
More bread has kept me smiling. And fewer things hit the spot quite like spreading soft butter and shiny lard across the bread.
Squab & Foie Gras Croustillant (for two) seasonal vegetables • bay leaf jus
Finally, the main course, which was what I came here for, did become the tipping point of this entire meal. The very French juxtaposition of squab breast, foie gras and pastry was mind-boggling. Its full bodiness was a triumph. The wrapped cabbage offered a leafy lightness as a good balance. Given its many layers, each bite was exciting in a different way. I have only wished we’d been give more off this dish.
Awakening • Strawberry Rhubarb * poached rhubarb • buttermilk panna cotta • strawberry sorbet
Perhaps strawberry plus rhubarb was already a winning formula. There was nothing worrisome about this dessert. Everything tasted very elemental.
“Fantasy”: chocolate kirsch amarena with Guanaja chantilly, olive oil chocolate sponge cake & kirsch sorbet.
The melting-before-your-eyes chocolate cone again showed the whims of the chef. It was architectonically beautiful.
Meal ends with some delightgul petit fours. Eating them in a row, I experienced a rare heady contrast in flavor from the intense blue cheese filling and the citrusy brightness of the passion fruit morsel. Just wonderful.
Dining at Gabriel Kreuther was righteous and in moderation. The menu strikes an ambitious balance between refined and whimsical. Definitely well deserving of its Michelin Star.