Le Coq Rico
30 E 20th St
New York, NY 10003
b/t Broadway & S Park Ave Flatiron
July 24, 2016
En Meurette - bacon & mushroom in red wine reduction
Le Coq Rico - the famous chef Antoine Westermann’s new bistro of beautiful birds in NYC – has been a recent favorite of mine. (recent means in June.. My apology)
For the appetizer “Eggz” part, I started with the en meurette. It was a comfort-mad dish. The way all the ingredients have been put together was carefully fashioned. A bite of mushroom plus bacon was bundled with the liquidy broken egg red wine reduction mixture. Things electrified in the mouth.
Terrine en Croute of Duck Foie Gras
This classic rendition was surely a technical marvel. It was rich, and richly priced at $32 for a single slab…
The whole birds – Brune Landaise- 110 days
And here comes the main event – the whole chicken, served with a reduced stock of the cooking juices, and a side of salad. Poultry at Le Coq Rico was being prepared in a quite simple way, with the focus being on the fowl itself. It turned out that the chicken embraced itself so well, and did possess a glorious chicken flavor. I was almost at a loss as to how to explain it on my first bite (similar to my bird eating moment at Nomad). The texture of the chicken was tender and moist. To me, as poultry cookery goes, this could be something close to perfection.
Daisy Gold Potato Puree
The side of potato puree was intensely creamed and buttered. French always knows how to make a legit potato puree. This version was very close to the one I had at Daniel.
Frenchie Bellini – sparkling wine, peach purée & lavander & Monmartre – chilled red wine & raspberry
When the second time we went there for lunch, we had this amazing cocktail Monmatre (on the back). The server told us it was simply a mixture of chilled pinot noir and raspberry juice. I think I can live with that. My companion could not help but ordered another glass, however, it was less impressive with a much higher amount of sweetness.
Sauteed Chicken Livers - hummus & mâche
Another appetizer we tried out is the liver, which was fresh, and sizzled to to the desired doneness. Its bold flavor was neutralized by the tartly dressed greens. This plate was pleasant though unremarkable.
Chilled Green Pea & Mint - with chicken broth Velouté, lemon & poultry Rillettes
Pea soup was excellent, smooth and pleasing, the mint introducing a light dimension to the sandiness. However I was not sure if the rillettes was doing anything good here.
I’Iile Lottante – soft meringue, red praline & creme anglaise
Dessert was unusual - a huge white sphere resting in a pool of crème. The meringue was light and airy, and the creme was velvety and not overly sweet. It both looked and tasted festive.
Peach Melba – Poached peach, raspberry coulis, vanilla ice cream & Chantilly cream
As above, the portion of dessert was consistently huge. The peach melba was in a good condition, but it was hard for me to get really excited about it.
Service at Le Coq Rico was charming. Most servers speak french to each other. Oh, and the baguette basket on the table was actually very tasty, and regularly topped up throughout the meal. On point.