Le Kitchen Café
34 rue Chevreul
Lyon, France 69007
Jean Macé, 7ème arrondissement
November 14, 2016
Pear and almond sliced cake
Lyon – the city spreading the gospel of French cuisine! And I made my pilgrimage last month.
Le Kitchen Café was a restaurant I found on Yelp when I was planning for my sunday (shuttered day) lunch. Booked a reservation couple days ahead, and arrived on schedule. My first impression would be, man, another Japanese inspired French restaurant. But man, this place is straight-up delicious.
Opted for the three-course lunch set, however, sitting in front of the bakery counter made us rush for a sliced cake, which did not leave much of an impression.
Soupe de pomme de terre – moules de st Michel, tomate confite & aneth
To kick things off, there was the smoothest potato soup in history. The mussels, which was the essence of autumn, has taken the bowl to another level.
Rillettes en terrine – choux de bruxelle marines au soja & radis red meat
Magret de canard – creme de celeri & rhubarbe
Saumon gravlax mi-cuit – bouillon aux champignons shiitake & sriracha, cocos de paimpol & carottes
Things moved up a gear with the main. Each plate had an eyeful of colors. The duck course was expertly constructed, elegant, and altogether pleasant. Those lobes of gently smoked salmon were cooked so exactingly.
I would never guess the pre-dessert we got came through as the dinner’s spiritual center. Honey drizzled over the fresh goat cheese slowly ran into the pear puree below. It teased out the fruity sweetness and equalized the cheesy funk. And masterful, thyme and pepper was finished to give the tastebud a wizard effect.
Chocolat noir en diferentes textures – glace noisette
Later, a sculptural dessert made its way to the table. It was sweet, salty, rich, earthy and tart. Every spoonful stroke the perfect balance in mouth without failure. The mousse, the ice cream, the cake and the chip made the texture all the rage. This was the kind of chocolate dessert everybody hoped for - nonconformist yet wonderfully familiar at the same time.
Mousse laitiere & sorbet abricot – brioche au sesame & the earl grey
Sideways, the already pliable sticky bun was ultra moist under a scoop of cream mousse. Both desserts were such a fine way to finish a meal.
I had kept thinking about this meal for days after leaving Lyon. Le Kitchen Café is certainly cosseting.