178 Stanton St
New York, NY 10002
b/t Attorney St & Clinton St Lower East Side
January 6, 2016
Lowlife opens right on my block recently. Because of the fame of the former Blanca chef, it suddenly becomes one of those every-so-often new restaurants that everybody will have a different opinion about, but everybody still goes to try.
We were first served with some pain d’epi. It was burnished to a beautiful chestnut color, with good crusty angles. One big complaint here was the very underpoured glass of wine.
Celeriac remoulade, Apple, White Beans
Garganelli, Lamb bolognese
The starter salad was decent with a benign rootness coming through the celeriac, and the smal plate pasta was supple, well seaconed, and never oversauced. The garganelli itself did need to be firmer though, fairly said.
Half chicken yakitori, Scallion, Smoked Cabbage
Heard that the bird at Lowlife is a standout before coming. It was indeed juicy and crisp in the right measure. As to the flavor, this heap of poultry pieces tasted exactly like Japanese chicken teriyaki. The dish also came with some lightly smoked cabbage and delicious scallion, which was charred to a sweet finish.
Raw-milk ice with husk-cherry compote and black lime
Originally I did not expect much from Lowlife’s short dessert menu, however the raw-milk ice shocked our table as a stylish ending. The shaved ice itself was not fluffy or airy enough comparing with the traditional asian shaved ice. But the flavor was outstanding. The cherry compote was unique and just right amount to reach the end of the bowl without getting bland in flavor. The tangy and funky black lime shavings (the kicker right there) came through rythmly on every spoon. Delightful!